Sunday, 20 March 2016

Aroma di Roma

Rome is a feast for the senses in all respects but olfactory delights may not be the first that spring to mind. In truth, fragrance can be found all around the city .

We enjoy the scented blooms in the Rose Garden........

...... the orange blossom in the courtyard of Palazzo Dora Pamphili.......

.....and the jasmine, tumbling over sidewalk walls. Rome is heavy with the scent of flowers


Wood smoke rising from the pizza oven in the trattoria below our apartment was one of the abiding scent memories from our 2012 trip to Rome.

Then there are the charred edges that so define the thin crust of a Roman style pizza which has a perfume all of its own.

In Trastevere, La Renella, a neighbourhood bakery, uses hazelnut shells to fuel the oven, the aroma of which permeates the bread that is produced here.

In the winter there are hot chestnuts to be found on many street corners. An aroma that speaks to us of Christmas.


Orange trees heavy with bitter fruit are found all over the city but our favourite grove is found in the Orange Garden on the Aventine Hill.


This winter we bought home fruits that had fallen from the trees and made marmalade with them. A lovely culinary souvenir.
The fabulous markets have stall upon stall of fragrant seasonal fruits, As you would imagine summer is a particularly aromatic time to visit.

In spring the trees that line the Lungotevere are heady with the scent of fresh leaves,

In all honesty we can't say that the Trevi Fountain has the most romantic smell (more cleaning chemical than fresh water) but Oceana looks magnificent after the restoration.

However, pure, fresh water is freely available from the many 'nasone' around the city.


The hint of the exotic floats through ancient doors  as incense is distributed during Mass. A scene replicated so many times in this city of more than 900 churches. On feast days the perfume lingers in the streets from outdoor services.

Probably our favourite aroma di Roma - who can resist those wonderful pastries, especially when served up with the best coffee.

Row upon row of delicious baked delights .......

.....presented in a beautifully wrapped parcels.

If only we could package our scent memories like this - what a wonderful gift that would make.

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