Saturday, 25 July 2015

An Offaly Good Hair Day

The metro this morning took forever to arrive. Apparently someone had been taken ill on a train further down the line. However we eventually reached Piramide and fortified ourselves with strong espresso from Tram Stop

Breakfast today is pizza bianca with mortadella from Passi, a wonderful bakers in Testaccio. We eat in the newly renovated Piazza Testaccio and gaze at the Amphorae Fountain.

This is one of nine Lombardi fountains in the city which were designed to represent the district in which they are situated.
Across the piazza is  Enoteca Palomba where we are spoiled for choice when it comes to selecting a bottle of Franciacorta.
I have a date with the hairdresser so husband takes off to Emporio delle Spezie, armed with a list of spices needed to replenish our cupboards back home.
We meet up at the market where we could spend all day looking around the various stalls. We soon tick off items on the shopping list. Tomatoes and basil from Giancarlo. Prosciutto and mozzarella from Enzo & Lina, a husband and wife team who have worked the stall together for over 30 years.
At Sartor the butcher, the veal is sliced to the correct thickness for saltimbocca and our plastic wine bottle is filled at the vino sfuso stall. Finally we reach Dess'Art for a taste of arancini & panelle fried to order.
Sadly the cannoli will have to wait for another day as it is almost time for lunch.
The restaurants in Testaccio are known for their offal dishes and Agustarello comes highly recommended.
We start by sharing bucatoni carbonara.
Followed by coda alla vaccianara (oxtail)
An amazing dish - the meat literally fell off the bone and we were told that the richness of the sauce is due  to the addition of cocoa.
Chopped fresh fruit macerated in moscato wine ended the meal perfectly.

With full stomachs we head back to the air conditioned apartment for a well earned rest.
On Friday evenings in summer The Miracle Players perform in front of the Mamertime Prison near the Roman Forum. This years offering is called 'Rome in a Nutshell' and it is a joyful romp through hundreds of years of history. We take our seats on the nearby church steps and experience 40 minutes of pure fun.

 Dinner tonight is at Emma, a fairly new pizzeria near Campo di Fiori. This definitely goes on the list of favourite places to eat. I loved everything about it - d├ęcor, staff, atmosphere but especially the food.

The night ends on our roof terrace, sipping wine by candlelight.

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