Once again we are returning to the Eternal City, our twelfth visit and second time of staying in Testaccio.
Taking the train from the airport means we get to admire Stazione Ostiense. The station was built on Mussolini's orders to commemorate the visit to Rome of Adolf Hitler (by some bizarre coincidence at exactly this time of year in 1938). It is a great example of Fascist style architecture constructed in Travertine marble
The peaceful piazza in front of the station that once hosted German troops is now called Piazza delle Partigiani after the partisans who fought in the war, and the street we walk along, also constructed by Mussolini and named Via Adolf Hitler, is now called Via delle Cave Ardeatine to remember the reprisal massacre of Italians which took place in the caves nearby.
After topping up our travel passes we make our way in front of the Piramide and on to Via Marmorata where we admire yet another modern building - the Post Office.
Once established in our apartment we venture out across the Piazza to stock up on essentials at the local supermarket.
The fountain here has a connection with Mussolini too. He had it moved from this original spot to the main street where Hitler would see it as he passed through. It was only recently moved back here.
Our passeggiata & aperitivo tonight are on the Janiculum Hill but first we pick up supplies from our favourite natural wine shop, Les Vignerons. The walk uphill is rewarded with glimpses like this.
We pass the memorial to those who died fighting the Italian Wars of Independence as well as the glorious Fontana Acqua Paolo.
Then on to Piazza Garibaldi where we enjoyed our aperitivo under the watchful eye of the man himself.
The visability was the best we have ever seen in all our times of visiting this spot.
On our way down we pass Anita Garibaldi, wealding a pistol and holding a baby, as well as the Manfredi Lighthouse
We catch the bus back to Testaccio for our dinner at Taverna Volpetti. The produce used in the cooking is from the famous deli next door and is exceptional quality. The salami & cheese platter that we shared to start represented Italy on a slate
For primo we had rigatoni with beef cheek which was melt in the mouth and cod with chicory & chick pea puree which sounds bland but had an amazing crust that lifted the whole dish.
We drank a local Cesanese wine which we aslo took back to our candle lit terrace to finish the evening off perfectly.
