For salami etc head to Norcineria Viola at number 45. The
staff are happy for you to try before you buy!
OK so you have your food provisions, hopefully your water
bottles have been replenished at one of the many water fountains, so you are
all set for your picnic lunch
Don’t forget to take a look at the
flower stalls before you leave the market – I love the little €5 posies!
Head to Piazza Farnese where, straight ahead, you will see Palazzo Farnese. Designed by Michelangelo, this is now the French Embassy. The elegant fountains display the Farnese family emblem – lilies.
Take the street to the left of the palazzo, Via del Mascherone. At
the foot of this street you will see one ugly looking fountain.
This was commissioned by the Farnese family & was
created by combining two ancient sculptures. It was said to have dispensed wine
instead of water for Farnese parties – my sort of fountain, however ugly!
The ivy covered archway that you can see was designed by
Michelangelo and was intended to connect Palazzo Farnese with Villa Farnese on
the other side of the river but the project was never finished.
Turn left and continue along until you come to Ponte Sisto.
As you walk across the bridge you get a glimpse of the dome of St Peters.
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Looking towards Ponte Sisto with Dome in background |
You are now in Trastevere but don’t worry, it is not much
further to your picnic spot. Keep walking to the right of Piazza Trilussa and
you will come to Piazza Giovanni di Malva
Keep to the right on Via di San Dorotea and turn right in to
Via Porta Settimiana.
The building on the right, which is now Romolo restaurant,
was once the home of La Fornarina, the baker’s daughter who was Raphael’s
lover.
Take Via Corsini on the left hand side which will bring you to
the gates of the Botanical Gardens.
Once you have paid your €8 entrance fee you can pick the
perfect spot for your picnic. After relaxing spend the rest of the afternoon
exploring the gardens. If you make your way to the very top you will be
rewarded with a lovely view of the city.
As you leave the gardens glance up and you will see
Garibaldi watching over you from the Giancolo Hill.
When you are ready to leave the gardens retrace your steps to
Piazza San Giovanni di Malva but this time take Via Benedetta. At number 7 is I
Dolci di Checco er Carettiere where you can get your daily dose of gelato.
Continue along and turn left at Piazza Trilussa then right to walk along the
riverside to the next bridge, Ponte Garibaldi, where you can pick up the tram
to Piazza Venezia. From here you can get bus 40 back to Termini. As this is a
major tourist bus route just be aware of your belongings. If you prefer you
could take a taxi from here.
Enjoy some ‘downtime’ (or collapse in a heap!) before going
out for dinner.
Take the metro from Termini to Cavour (1 stop on line B –
Laurentina) Exit left from the metro station, cross the road and go down the
steps. You are now in Monti, once known as the Suburra and birthplace of Julius
Caesar. Take Via Leonina on your left and follow it until you cross Via
Serpenti in to Via Madonna dei Monti. Taverna dei Fori Imperiali is at number
9. Enjoy sampling traditional Roman dishes at this family run trattoria.
If you still have some
energy after dinner then I
suggest a ‘nightcap’ in Piazza Madonna dei Monti (at Via Serpenti turn left and
cross the road to the piazza) Get a drink from one of the bars and join the
locals around the fountain.
When retracing your steps back to the metro station note
that the entrance is on the Monti side of the road for your return journey to
Termini (Line B – Rebibbia)
Tuesday
An early start today (but it is so worth it!) for your 'Pristine Sistine' tour which you will have booked online before leaving home.
Take the metro from Termini to Ottaviano for your 7.35 am meet up. If you haven't had time for breakfast pick up a cornetti at Dolce Maniera (Via Barletta 27) which is not far from the metro station. You might not spot it immediately (it is down stairs) but you will know you are close from the aroma of freshly baked cornetti filling the air!
After meeting up with your guide a brisk walk ensures that you will see the Sistine Chapel and Michelangelo's masterpiece in relative peace and quiet. The tour then takes in the highlights of the museums including the Raphael Rooms & Laocoon as well as ceiling after glorious ceiling.
The tour then moves on to St Peter's Basilica with yet more unforgettable highlights - Michelangelo's Pieta and Bernini's Baldacchino to name but two.
After your tour head out on to the piazza and
check out this optical
illusion in the square. Locate one of the 2 discs in line with the fountains.
If you stand on the disc facing the colonnade you will
see that the three lines of columns appear to be one.
Lunch beckons so head through the left hand colonnade and walk down Via del Borgo Sant'Angelo, passing the Tiara Fountain as you go.
Turn left on Via Ombrellan and continue on Via Properzio. At number 31 you will find Sorpasso. Whether you are in the mood for a snack or a plate of pasta you will not be disappointed with the lovingly prepared dishes served in this shabby chic restaurant.
After lunch you can either head straight to Ottaviano metro station to return to Termini or you can enjoy a little retail therapy on Via Cola di Rienzo. If you choose the latter look out for George Clooney - he can be found in the Coin department store!
Back to the Beehive to enjoy time in the courtyard garden.
Hopefully, after some downtime you will be ready to venture out once more. If you enjoyed Monti yesterday evening then you could return to sample aperitivo, where the price of a drink includes plates of food. This is usually served from around 6.30/7.00pm.
Some places that we have tried are:
2 Periodico, Via Leonina 77 (you will have passed this last night) – this is such a comfy bar you may not want to leave! Sink in to a sofa after helping yourself from the buffet table. Super friendly staff too. Sadly now closed - a new bar has opened in it's place but we have not tried this out
If you turn right in to Via degli Zingari you will see Civico 44. This is the total opposite in style to 2 Periodico, very minimalistic. Here they put together an aperitivo platter for you. The best seats in the house are those at the open windows.
If you continue you on to Via Boschetto at number 79 you will find Pucciami. The aperitivo here is inexpensive but the food is really good. Again it is prepared for you.
Wednesday
Are you ready for your day of culture, coffee and cloisters?
If so take the number 40 bus to Piazza Venezia
Walk up Via del Corso to Galleria Doria Pamphilj – this is
situated in the Palazzo of the same name. Walk through the courtyard filled
with orange trees to the ticket office.
The €11 entrance fee includes an audio guide narrated by
Prince Jonathan Pamphilj who still lives in the palazzo today. The narration
really brings the palazzo alive with anecdotes from his childhood. If you want
to take pictures inside a Photo Pass is available at the bookshop.
The pictures in the gallery are hung exactly as they would
have been in the 18th century – no minimalism here! You will have
your favourites – mine is ‘The Penitent Magdalen’ by Caravaggio (although the
audio guide is quite scathing about this picture!!) The greatest treasure is
‘Portrait of Innocent X’ by Velazques which is housed in a vestibule off the
glorious Hall of Mirrors. At the time of writing this particular work of art is on tour but a replica is in place.
At the end of your visit exit through Piazza del
Collego Romano and take Via Pie di Marmo. On the corner of Via del Gesu you
will see a huge marble foot – remains of a huge statue of Isis.
Continue on to Via Di Santa Caterina da Siena and in to the
delightful Piazza della Minerva complete with a Bernini elephant supporting an
obelisk!
As you can see you are very close to the Pantheon, Via della
Minerva will bring you to the front of this magnificent building that has stood
here for almost 2,000 years.
The Corinthian columns at the Pantheon’s entrance are each
cut from a single stone & were designed to hide the dome from view. The architects planned
that by obscuring the dome they would provoke a sense of wonder as people walked in &
saw the perfect hemisphere inside.
The huge bronze doors are original from the time of Hadrian.
Hadrian rebuilt the temple but left the name of the original builder, Agrippa,
on the portico.
The tombs inside the Pantheon include those of Raphael, the
kings of modern Italy and Queen Margherita (after whom the pizza is named!}
Now it is coffee time (at last!) As you leave the Pantheon
turn left on to Salita dè Crescenzi then left again in to Piazza San Eustachio.
Café San Eustachio is a Roman institution, it opened in 1938 and the mosaic
paving and furnishings are still the original ones. Absolutely nothing beats the experience of
sipping a Cafe Eustachio cappuccino (made to their own secret recipe – note
that the espresso machines are positioned so that the barista’s activities are
hidden from your view!) whilst sitting enjoying the view of the distinctive
stags head aloft the bell tower of Sant’Eustachio.
If you go to the loo at the back of the café, you will pass
the original machinery that was used to grind the coffee. A bag or tin of their
signature coffee makes a good souvenir to bring home.
Walk along the side of Palazzo Madama. This is now the home
of the Italian Senate but at one time Caravaggio lodged here as it was owned by
his wealthy patron.
Take Via Staderari, where you will see a fountain dear to a
Librarians heart – The Fountain of the Books!
Cross Corso del Rinascimento in to Piazza Navona which is
dominated by Bernini’s Fountain of the Four Rivers and Borromini’s Church of
Sant’Agnese in Agone.
At the time that Bernini designed & built the fountain
he had a vicious rivalry with Borromini. According to lore, two of the fountains
figures play out this rivalry. The Nile’s head is covered by a cloth to avoid
looking at the façade of Sant’Agnese in Agone
The figure of Rio della Plata who also faces Borromini’s church raises
his hand in terror as if expecting the façade to collapse.
Stroll amongst the artists and trinket stalls and take in
the street entertainment.
When you have
finished exploring take the street to the right of Sant’Agnese which leads to
Via Tor Milina. Turn right in to Via della Pace and head towards the Church of Santa
Maria della Pace. To the left of the church you will see the entrance to
Chiostro di Bramante (look for signs to the Chagall exhibition) Walk past the
ticket office (entrance fee is just for the exhibition) and take the stairs to
the right which will bring you to the cafeteria where you can enjoy lunch in a
loggia above a 15th century cloister. Lunch is served between 12.00 – 3.00.