Today we shall visit places linked to a classic story of love & loss. The opera Tosca by Puccini was set in Rome and tells the story of a popular singer, Tosca, who falls in love with artist & freedom fighter, Cavaradossi. When he is arrested & sentenced to death she uses her amorous wiles to secure a reprieve for her lover, only to be double crossed in the finale.
We start in the church of Sant'Andrea delle Valle where Puccini sets the first act of his opera. It is here that Cavaradossi agrees to help the fugitive, Angelotti escape which results in his subsequent arrest.
The church is an impressive example of Baroque style and has the largest dome in Rome after St Peters as well as a beautiful gilded interior.
After your exploration of the church turn left on Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, then left on to Via dei Baullari. Cross Campo di Fiori & continue on Via dei Baullari to Piazza Farnese.
If you are ready for refreshment then make a stop at Caffe Farnese. The outdoor tables are a perfect spot for taking in the gorgeous Piazza Farnese. The huge granite baths that form the fountains were found in the Baths of Caracalla and the facade of Palazzo Farnese (now the French Embassy) was designed by Michelangelo.
The Palazzo is also used by Puccini as the setting of Tosca's submission to & subsequent murder of Baron Scarpia, Chief of Police.
Take Via di Monseratto from the piazza & then carry on along Via dei Banchi Vecchi & Via del Banco Santo Spirito until you reach Ponte Sant'Angelo. This bridge, decorated with Bernini's angels will lead you to Castel Sant'Angelo.
Built as a mausoleum for Emperor Hadrian, Castel Sant'Angelo affords fabulous views of the city from the ramparts. It is also the setting for
Cavaradossi's yearning farewell to life & Tosca's plunge to death after she discovers she has been double crossed in the tragic finale of Puccini's opera.
There is a cafe on the upper terraces of Castel Sant'Angelo but I have another suggestion for lunch. It is a short walk away but that will build up an appetite!
As you leave Castel Sant'Angelo turn right on to Piazza Pia. Carry on & turn left on to Via Giovanni Vitelleschi then right on to Via Pompioni Leti. Carry on to Via Varrone & Via Silla. At 26 , Via Silla you will see Romeo - our lunch destination. The name obviously fits in to our romantic theme. Actually the restaurant isn't named after Juliet's partner but from the components for Alfa Romeo cars that were made in the factory here. There is a deli & bakery but also a relaxed seating area where you can enjoy platters of cured meats & cheeses, pasta dishes & gourmet hamburgers.
After lunch carry on along Via Silla & turn left on to Viale Giulio Cesere. Ahead you will see Ottaviano metro station. Take line A southbound (Anagnina) as far as Cinecitta. As you exit the metro at Cinecitta you will see the film studios ahead of you. If you time this correctly you should be able to take the 15.30 studio tour (€20). You will see sets used in 'Gangs of New York' and for the HBO series 'Rome' among others but our romantic reason for visiting the studios is that it was here that Richard Burton met Elizabeth Taylor whilst filming 'Cleopatra' - one of the most famous romantic liaisons of our time.
A visit to the museum is included in the ticket price.
A little 'chill time' is in order once you are back in the city centre. Hopefully you will be refreshed enough to enjoy yet another stunning view, this time from the Giancolo. A good way to get there from the historical centre is to use the 116 electric bus. Check the ATAC website to find the bus stop nearest to where you are staying. I have given detailed directions on how to reach the viewpoint on day 3 of my September post 'The Waters of Rome'
Depending on the time, you will either enjoy the sun setting over Rome or the twinkling lights of the city. Both are magical sights and can be enjoyed with refreshments purchased from the little kiosk on Piazza Garibaldi.
Almost dinner time which does entail yet more walking but this time it is downhill! Carry on walking along the Passeggiata past the Paolo fountain & follow Via Garibaldi down into Trastevere. If you look to your left towards Porta Settimiana as you near the end of Via Garibaldi you will see Romolo Restaurant. This is the former home of Raphael's Fornarina and the artist would visit here whilst employed in painting Pope Julius's private apartments in the Vatican.
Turn right at this point on to Via della Scala and continue on until you reach Piazza Santa Maria Trastevere. This gorgeous square is even more beautiful at night and was the setting for a scene from the 1994 romantic comedy 'Only You' starring Marisa Tomei & Robert Downey Jr.
For dinner I am suggesting a homely trattoria in a more down to earth piazza, but enchanting all the same. Da Teo is to be found in Piazza dei Ponziani which is the other side of Viale Trastevere.
Take Vicolo del Piede from the piazza, turn right on Via della Pelliccia, then right on to Via del Moro then right again on to Piazza di Sant'Apollonia. I have bought you a slight detour in order to show you the piazza that witnessed the last chapter in the love story between Raphael & his Fornarina. It was to a convent in this square that La Fornarina came, four months after Raphael died. It has also been suggested that Raphael's last painting, The Transfiguration' now in the Vatican Museum and in which La Fornarina is represented, was painted in a house in this square.
Retrace your steps on to Via del Moro, turn right on to Vicolo della Renella then continue on to the riverside. Turn right and walk along the river , crossing Viale Trastevere, until you reach Via della Botticella and continue on to Piazza del Ponziani and Trattoria Da Teo.
After dinner make your way back to Viale Trastevere and pick up the number 8 tram back to Argentina from where you can walk back to your accommodation or take a taxi.
Day 3
We start today at Santa Maria in Cosmedin where we will find the Bocca della Verita or 'Mouth of Truth' made famous in the film 'Roman Holiday'. Indeed you will probably find a queue of people waiting patiently to recreate the scene where Gregory Peck pretends to lose his hand as a shocked Audrey Hepburn looks on.
However, there is much more to this church than an ancient drain cover (allegedly the origin of the Bocca della Verita). Indeed inside you will find a relic of the saint associated with love mentioned at the beginning of this post.
Saint Valentine was a Roman priest who was persecuted as a Christian. The Emperor at the time, Claudius II, had banned young men from marrying so that they would make better soldiers. Valentine married young couples in secret and was arrested and questioned by the Emperor himself. He was executed on Via Flaminia on February 14th 270AD.
On leaving the church turn right on to Via dei Cerchi then left on to Via San Teodoro. Tucked away at the beginning of this street (at number 88) is Cristallo di Zucchero - a little bit of heaven for those of you with a sweet tooth. As well as divine pastries & cakes they also sell croissants and savory snacks - ideal picnic food. I have the perfect spot with a view for you to enjoy your purchases.
Head back down Via San Teodoro, cross Via dei Cerchi and Via del Circo Massimo and walk up Clivio del Publico. You will see the entrance to Giardino Arance (Orange Garden) tucked around the corner from the church of Santa Sabina. Walk to the end of the park, find yourself a spot on the parapet and enjoy your lunch with a view.
After lunch continue walking up Via di Santa Sabina until you reach the Piazza dei Cavalieri di Malta. look for the green door on the right hand side of the square and take a peek through the keyhole. You will see the dome of St Peters perfectly framed by an avenue of trees.
Retrace your steps but this time turn left after the Giardino Arance on to Clivio di Rocca Savella and follow the steep path down. Turn right at the end of the path and walk along the river, past the temples of the Forum Boarium, as far as Ponte Fabricio.
At this point turn right, past the Synagogue, into the Jewish Ghetto. Follow Via del Portico D'Ottavia then turn right in to Via di Sant'Ambrogio. Providing it is after 2.00pm on a Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday or Sunday you can take a thermae experience just like the Ancient Romans did, at the AcquaMadre Hamman.
Suitably refreshed and relaxed exit from the hamman & continue on to Piazza Mattei & the gorgeous Tortoise Fountain. You can read the romantic story attached to the fountain on day 1 of The Waters of Rome post.
Time to chill before heading out once again to the Spanish Steps. This time you are going to walk up the steps, pausing at the top to take in the view before turning left and walking along Viale Trinita dei Monti. Carry on until you see Via del Belvedere on your right, just after Villa Medici. Walk up this road and you will come to the Pincio - yet another viewpoint .Again, depending on the time of day, you will either get a sunset or night time view of the city.
Carry on walking until you see Casina Valadier which is a lovely restaurant for your last meal in Rome. A table on the romantic terrace is the perfect way to end your all too short visit to the Eternal City - after all ' Roma non basta una vita', a lifetime is not enough.
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Casina Valadier |