Friday, 13 December 2013

Angels From the Realms of Glory

Rome is full of angels. Here are five of my favourites.

Ponte Sant'Angelo is a good place to start. The ten angels on the bridge are each holding an instrument of Christ's passion.

They were designed by Bernini and completed by himself, his pupils and other artists. Bernini was responsible for the angel with the crown of thorns & the angel with the inscription 'I N R I'  but these statues are copies. Pope Clement IX, who had commissioned the angels,  realised that the Bernini statues  were too precious to be exposed to the elements. They can now be seen in the church of Sant'Andrea delle Fratte.

Look upwards to the summit of Castel Sant'Angelo and you will see the Archangel Michael looking over you.
The statue celebrates a miraculous vision of Pope Gregory the Great in the sixth century. At the time the city was suffering a terrible plague. The pope organised processions in order to beg forgiveness & ask for the plague to be lifted.Just as Pope Gregory was about to enter St Peter's he saw a vision of the Archangel Michael sheathing his sword and the pestilence ceased. In honour of this event Hadrian's Mausoleum was renamed Castel Sant'Angelo.
The bronze statue was erected in the 18th century. The original marble statue from the 16th century can be seen inside the castle.
Tucked away in the tiny chapel of St Zenone, in the church of St Prassede, are the most exquisite angels you will ever see in mosaic form.
 The mosaics are the work of Byzantine artists and date from the ninth century.
A more recent angel can be seen in the Protestant Cemetery. The 'Weeping Angel' is an 1894 sculpture by William Wetmore Story which serves as a memorial to the artist and his wife.
My final choice of angels are by Canova & they adorn the monument to the last three family members of the House of Stuart in St Peter's Basilica.
The reversed torches that the angels hold symbolise the lost hopes of the exiled Stuarts.

Saturday, 30 November 2013

Busy Bees


Bees can be seen all over Rome as they are the heraldic symbol of the Barberini family - the family that produced Pope Urban VIII. Bees represent wisdom but they weren't the first symbol of the Barberini family , who have their roots in Florence - originally it was a horsefly!  Once elected pope, Urban VIII set about commissioning artists who were to turn the Eternal City in to a Baroque showcase. The monuments that were created inevitably included a reference to the 'Barberini Bees'
We start our bee quest at Palazzo Barberini, the Barberini family palace. Since 1949 the Palazzo has belonged to the Italian State and now forms part of the Galleria Nazionale d'Arte Antica. There are many treasures to be seen but our ultimate destination is the Great Hall and the ceiling fresco by Cortona. 'The Triumph of Divine Providence' includes a flight of bees soaring through the heavens.

From the Palazzo walk down to Piazza Barberini where you will see the Tritone Fountain, designed by Bernini. This fountain has recently been restored which should make spotting the bees a little easier!


Across the piazza, at the corner of Via Veneto, is one of my favourite Bernini fountains, the Fountain of the Bees. Here the bees appear to have paused to take a drink from the open scallop shell.

If you look down Via Veneto , a short way down on the right hand side you will see the church of Santa Maria della Concezione. This is better known for the Capuchin cemetery, which has become a major tourist attraction, but the church itself was built for a  Barberini Cardinal. Cardinal Antonio Barberini, a Capuchin friar, was the elder brother of Pope Urban VIII.
Retrace your steps across the piazza to the metro station. Take the metro to Ottaviano. We are heading to St Peter's Basilica but first you may like a coffee fix at Sciascia. It is easy to find - just head down Viale Giulio Cesare and take the third road on the right , Via Fabbio Massimo. Sciascia can be found at number 80A.
Refreshed, make your way to St Peters. From our bee searching point of view we need to start at Bernini's glorious baldacchino - the canopy over the main altar. Bronze taken from the Pantheon was used by Bernini in creating the baldacchino which led to the famous saying 'What the Barbarians did not do, the Barberini did. Obviously Pope Urban VIII felt no shame in robbing a monument that had stood for over 1600 years.
If you look closely at the ornate columns you will see the heraldic bees among the foliage.
Yet more bees are to be found on the plinths that support the columns. This time the bees form part of the pope's coat of arms. Look carefully above the heraldic crest and you may see a woman's face. Legend says that Pope Urban VIII commissioned the baldacchino as a thanksgiving for his favourite niece surviving childbirth. The faces are supposed to show expressions of pain during labour but on the last pedestal on the right a baby with a smiling face appears.
More bees can be seen on the tomb of Pope Urban VIII. This can be found on the right hand side of the Altar of the Chair or Cathedra right at the back of the basilica. The tomb was designed by Bernini.
 Time for lunch. My recommendation is Sorpasso, Via Properzio 31. Head to Via del Borgo from St Peters Square and turn left on to Via Ombrellari, cross Piazza Capponi and you will find yourself in Via Properzio. Sorpasso serves delicious pasta dishes as well as platters of house cured charcuterie.
After lunch make your way back to Ottaviano and take the metro back to Barberini. This time follow the signs to the Trevi Fountain.
The original fountain was erected in 1453 and restored by Pope Urban VIII in the seventeenth century. The restoration was paid for by a tax on wine. Sadly there are no Barberini bees to be seen as the fountain in its present form was completed by the architect Nicholas Salvi, chosen by Pope Clement XII.
However we can taste some delicious honey ice cream very close by. Take Via dei Lavatore from the fountain and turn left on Via della Panetteria. Gelateria San Crispino is on the right hand side. Their signature ice cream is made with corbezzolo, a bitter honey from Sardinia.
Retrace your steps to the fountain & follow the signs to the Pantheon.
Peek in to the porch to see where the bronze cladding was removed for the baldacchino  that we saw in St Peters.
Walk along the right hand side of the Pantheon to Piazza Sant'Eustachio & take Via der Staderari to Sant Ivo alla Sapienza. The architect of this striking church was Borromini, who was recommended to Pope Urban VIII by Bernini. It is said that the ground plan was derived from the outline of the heraldic Barberini bee and that the spiral dome was inspired by the shape of a bee sting.
The exterior has yet more examples of the Barberini bees set in stone.
This brings our bee seeking itinerary to a close but it is by no means an exhaustive list. if you wish to explore further, there is a bee stained glass window in Santa Maria in Aracoeli, bee frescoed walls in the Gallery of Maps in the Vatican Museums and bee adorned vestments in the museum of Santa Maria Maggiore.
Bee happy!

Friday, 15 November 2013

Five Favourite Coffee Fixes

Sciascia, Via Fabio Massimo 80a - this is our new favourite coffee spot in Rome. Not only is the coffee delicious but it is served in elegant china cups. A handy breakfast spot before an early morning visit to St Peters or the Vatican Museums.

Er Caffettiere, Via Urbana 72 - We had the best cornetti here on our last trip - fresh out of the oven, every mouthful was buttery heaven. Even better is that you are standing above an original Ancient Roman tiled floor. Oh...and the baristas are drop dead gorgeous too!! 

Checco er Carettiere, Via Benedetta 7 - Cross the Ponte Sisto to Piazza Trilussa and very close by you will find the many premises that make up Checco er Carettiere. We haven't tried the Osteria or Ristorante but the Café/Pasticceria have delicious bomboloni (doughnuts) for those days when you just don't fancy cornetti.


Er Baretto, Via del Boschetto 132 - If we lived in Monti (in our dreams!) we would visit this neighbourhood café on a daily basis. Not only are the staff super friendly but the owner makes each cappuccino a work of art.


Café Sant'Eustachio - in every guidebook and most definitely on the tourist radar, but, never the less we love this spot. Yes I know it costs much more to sit at the outdoor tables but we  would gladly pay it to gaze upwards to the church of Sant'Eustachio, surmounted with the head of a deer which refers to the legend of Sant Eustace.

Oh, and the coffee isn't bad either! Made to their own secret recipe -  so secret that the baristas always have their backs to you as they prepare your cup.


Tuesday, 29 October 2013



Rome is no stranger to ghost stories, indeed the Roman writer, Pliny the Younger, is known to have recorded a ghost story around 100 AD. So if you are planning to be in Rome around Halloween, why not take a day out to explore the spooky side of the city.
First, it may be a good idea to pick up a day travel ticket (BIG) for €6. You can purchase this wherever you see the blue 'T' sign or at metro stations.

You will need to validate your ticket the first time that you use it. This is done automatically if you go through the gates at the metro station. Otherwise use the machine on the bus.

Your starting point is Ponte Sant'Angelo, across the river from Castel Sant'Angelo. It is said that on the night between September 10th and 11th, the bridge is haunted by the ghost of Beatrice Cenci. The young lady in question was the victim of an abusive father and was accused, along with three other members of her family, of his murder. Her arrest caused an outcry amongst the Roman people and her execution was delayed but eventually she was beheaded on this spot where her ghost walks, carrying her severed head, on the eve of the date of her execution.

Cross the bridge, turn right and walk along until you see the church of Sacro Cuore del Suffragio, not easily missed as the Neo-Gothic architecture is striking.

The purpose of the church is to give aid to souls in Purgatory. A small museum (well, really just a collection of museum cases) inside the church contains relics which have been collected to support the claim that Purgatory exists. These are objects that are 'branded' by the hands of the dead including clothing, bank notes & prayer books. Spooky indeed!
The church is open from 7.30 - 11.00 & 4.30 - 7.00. Museum is free.

After that you surely deserve breakfast. Fortunately the perfect spot is not too far away. Continue walking along & you will see Antonini, Gran Caffe Esperia. They serve delicious coffee & have a wonderful array of pastries. My favourite are those filled with zabaione. Enjoy!
Refreshed, carry on walking until you reach Ponte Regina Margherita. Cross back over the river here. Take the road immediately in front of you, Via F. di Savoia which will bring you to Piazza del Popolo.

In the Middle Ages it was believed that this area was haunted by the ghost of Emperor Nero. A walnut tree stood on the spot where his ashes lay and ravens roosting in the tree were believed to be demons tormenting him. The tree was cut down when the first church of Santa Maria del Popolo was built. The church that we see today contains several spooky skeletons including that made famous in 'Angels & Demons' as The Demon Hole. It can be found in the Chigi Chapel.

After your visit to the church, take the steps that lead up from the piazza & turn right on to Viale Trinita del Monti which will take you all the way to the top of the Spanish Steps. Admire the view then take Via Gregoriana. On the left hand side as you walk down look out for a fearsome monster doorway.

Turn left on to Via Francesco Crispi then right on to Via Sistina. A little way along turn left on to Via dei Cappucini. At the end of this road cross over to the Museo e Cripta dei Cappuccino. No Halloween itinerary could leave out the Capuchin Crypt, where the walls of five chapels are decorated with the bones & skulls of departed Capuchin friars. The Crypt now forms part of the museum & is included in the admission price of €6.
After your visit head to Piazza Barberini. Near the metro station you will see the bus stop for the little 116 electric bus. Take the bus 11 stops to Baullari - the nearest stop to Campo di Fiori.

The campo is dominated by the brooding statue of Giordano Bruno, who was burnt at the stake here for heresy in 1600. The  square was used as a place of execution, including that of two renegade monks who were accused of plotting to bring about the death of Pope Urban III by means of black magic.
However ghoulish all this is, our reason for visiting Campo di Fiori is as a lunch spot. At number 22 you will find Forno Campo di Fiori. A slice of pizza bianca, fresh from the oven will make a luscious snack. If you would like something suitable to wash it down with, head down Via del Giubbonari and turn left on to Via Monte della Farina to Il Vinaietto and ask them to recommend a glass of wine.

After lunch, make your way down to the river & Ponte Sisto.

As you have probably guessed, there is a ghost story attached to the bridge.
On certain dark nights a ghostly horse drawn black carriage has been seen racing across the bridge towards Trastevere. The occupant of the coach is believed to be Olimpia Pamphilj, sister in law of Pope Innocent X. She exerted a strong influence  & subsequently became extremely wealthy as many people presented her with riches in order to gain favour with the Pope. According to legend, as the Pope lay dying, Olimpia sat by his bedside awaiting his death so that she could steal gold from him. It is said she offered him no comfort in his final hours & that she refused even to pay for a wooden casket for his burial, claiming she was a poor widow. After she died the phantom coach started to appear on the bridge. People believed it was Olimpia's punishment for her cold hearted treatment of her brother in law and that when the coach stops Olimpia will be in hell. No one has ever seen the coach stop. It crosses the bridge, goes down the bank & disappears into the river.
Now take Via Giulia as far as Santa Maria dell'Orazione e Morte. This church was founded to collect the bodies of the unknown dead and give them a Christian burial. The Baroque exterior is covered with images of death.


Continue walking up Via Giulia  until you come to a bus stop on the left hand side. From here you can pick up the little 116 electric bus  for two stops to Teatro Valle. Walk up Via Teatro Valle, turn left on to Via Sediari, cross Corso del Rinascimento and you will find yourself in Piazza Navona.

Time for another ghost story. This time the main character is Costanza, a young noble woman of the Conti family. She married and moved in to Palazzo de Cupis , which adjoins the church of Sant'Agnese in Agone, in the piazza. She was particularly known for her beautiful hands - so much so that an artist asked to make a cast of them. The model was much admired however it was foretold that whoever the hands belonged to would lose them. Indeed, the prophesy came true when, after pricking her hand with a sewing needle, Costanza developed an infection and had to have the hand amputated. Sadly, not long after, Costanza died of the same infection. Whenever the moon shines on the windows of the Palazzo, a reflection reveals a pale hand that can be seen from the piazza below.

Retrace your steps to Corso del Rinascimento & locate the bus stop for bus 87 (L.Go Colli Albani). After six stops you will find yourself in front of the Colosseum. Take Via Nicola Salvi (on the same side of the road as the metro station) and look for Oppio Café (the entrance is actually round the corner on Via Terme di Tito). For the princely sum of €10 you can enjoy a drink & help yourself to the aperitivo buffet (from 5.00pm - 10.00pm). All this with a fabulous view of the Colosseum.


Of all the sights in Rome, the Colosseum has to be the most haunted - Gladiators, Christians and, indeed, many exotic beasts have died here. What better way to explore this magnificent monument than with a night time tour.
Information on ' The Moon over the Colosseum Night Openings' can be found here
Should you wish to extend your Halloween even further Buzz in Rome has details of where you can party, party. party! Enjoy.

Friday, 25 October 2013

Five Favourite Views

First favourite view is from Piazzale Garibaldi on the Giancolo. The city is spread out before you, surrounded by a necklace of hills - magical. It goes without saying that we simply have to visit this spot every time we return to Rome. While delightful at any time of day, aperitivo hour is our favourite. There is a kiosk selling drinks and, in the summer months, a trendy pop-up bar. Recently, however, we have taken our own refreshments with us.

If you linger long enough you can cross to the other side of the piazza to see the sunset over St Peters.

 The view from the keyhole in  Piazza dei Cavalieri di Malta on the Aventine Hill must be one of the worst kept 'secrets' in Rome but never the less it is a favourite view of ours.

St Peter's dome is framed by an avenue of trees in the garden of the Knights of Malta, glimpsed through the keyhole.

 You are actually seeing three sovereign states here - Italy, Malta & the Vatican.

Our next favourite view entails an early start - sunrise from the top of the Spanish Steps.

Worth the early start to see the domes of Rome in that fabulous light. A bonus is seeing the Boat Fountain at the bottom of the steps without  a crowd.
The Monti area of Rome provides yet another favourite view - Santa Maria Maggiore from Via Panisperna.
I love the way the basilica is perfectly framed by the hanging ivy.
Finally, we couldn't leave Rome without seeing the Forum at night from Michelangelo's glorious Campidoglio. 

Best thing  of all about  these views is that are all free! 


















Monday, 30 September 2013

To Rome with Love


Woody Allen's tribute to the Eternal City lends itself beautifully to an itinerary based on places used in the film,which was shot entirely on location.

If you choose to arrive by train (good connections from both airports) you will be following in the footsteps of Antonio & Milly, who start their Rome adventures at Termini Station.

As regards accommodation, the film features three hotels. Hotel Raphael ,  Donna Camilla Savelli and St Regis, all are delightful and each one would make a perfect base from which to explore neighbourhoods seen in the film.
I would suggest using your first evening in Rome to visit Trastevere. If you cross the river at Ponte Sisto you will reach the tiny Piazza della Malva.
Here you will see Er Cimotto, the fruit and vegetable store that was used in the film - produce stands were added to the normally bare exterior.
Continue on to Porto Settimana. 
On the corner of Via Garibaldi / Via della Scala John Foy meets Jack.
Take Via della Scala to Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere. In the corner of the square is the restaurant where Leopoldo took his date for lunch - Sabatini.
Why not enjoy dinner here? The food may not be the best in Rome but it is honest home cooking with an incomparable view of the piazza & all that is happening there. If you linger long enough you will see the church & fountain illuminated in night time splendour.
Day 1
Start your day at the delightful Piazza Madonna dei Monti.
This spot can be reached by either taking the metro to Cavour or the little electric 117 bus to Via Serpenti. Stop by for coffee at Bar Faraone on the piazza and you will be replicating a scene in the movie.
From the piazza take Via Baccina & look for a small street on your left. This is Via dei Neofiti & it is where the filming of Jack's house took place. Follow Via dei Neofiti until you reach Via Madonna dei Monti. Turn right & eventually you will come to Via dei Fori Imperiali with the view of the Colosseum as seen in the film.
From here head towards Piazza Venezia, recognisable from the opening scene.
Continue on to the bottom of the stairway leading up to Campodoglio. again familiar from the opening sequence of the film.
Resist the urge to climb the steps (we will return here later). Instead cross the road and take Via d'Aracoeli as far as Piazza Margana. Continue along Via Delfina until you reach the exquisite Piazza Mattei. At the centre of this tiny Piazza is the delightful turtle fountain.
Woody Allen uses this piazza as a film set within a film set. Here Milly meets her idol, Luca.
Take Via Funari as far as Via Arenula. You are about to cross the road & walk through Piazza Cairoli to Via del Giubbonari but before doing so glance to your right. On the left hand side of the road, opposite the Area Sacra (where Milly is seen asking directions ) is Teatro Argentina, one of the oldest opera houses in Rome. Sets were created here for the staging of 'Pagliacci' where Giancarlo is seen singing his role in the shower!

The backdrops for the opera were designed the old fashioned way with painted backings in keeping with the theatre's history.
Continue along Via del Giubbonari until you reach Campo di Fiori. The market should still be in full swing, watched over, as always, by the brooding statue of Giordano Bruno.

Immediately behind the statue you will see the Cinema Farnese. Leopoldo is seen leaving here with his wife & friends.
Take Via del Baullari from the Campo, Cross Corso Vittorio Emanuele II & head to Piazza Navona .........yet another beautiful piazza seen in the film.
 Walk the length of Piazza Navona, admiring the work of Bernini.....

......... and Borromini
Then leave the piazza by Via di Tor Millina and make your way to Café della Pace on the street of the same name. Time for a spot of  enjoyed by John Foy and company at this very café.
After a leisurely lunch meander through the Centro Storico until you reach Via del Corso. Cross here and follow the signs to the Trevi Fountain - a special place to Hayley & Michelangelo as they first meet when Hayley asks directions to this monument.
At this point I suggest some 'downtime' back at your accommodation in readiness for your evening 'passeggiata' , which will be taking in more 'To Rome with Love' locations of course!
Start your evening at the Spanish Steps. If you are lucky, as we were, you may see a band playing, as portrayed in the film.
 From Piazza di Spagna take Via della Croce and continue on, crossing Via del Corso, until you reach Piazza Augusto Imperatore. Walk through the piazza to Ara Pacis. Woody Allen set a fashion show here at which Leopaldo was a guest.
The set designers dressed the models in white to complement the surroundings.
The museum itself is fascinating but you can also view the Ara Pacis from outside thanks to the huge glass windows that form part of the Richard Meier building in which the altar is housed.
Now take Via Ripetta to Piazza del Popolo. 
This gorgeous piazza stands at the apex of three roads known as the Trident & is where Milly is seen losing her phone.
Take the first road in the  Trident, Via Babuino and walk along until you see Via Margutta on your left. This utterly lovely gem of a street was used by Woody Allen a couple of times in the film - John Foy is seen walking along after he leaves Café della Pace (the magic of cinema!)
Also Hayley and Michelangelo are seen dining here at Osteria Margutta.
Even if this restaurant hadn't appeared in the film we would still recommend it as it is one of our favourite restaurants in Rome.
I like to think that Woody Allen used this setting to pay homage to
'Roman Holiday' which was also filmed on this street.
After dinner return to the Spanish Steps & join the throng of people simply sitting & enjoying the balmy Roman night.
If you turn your gaze towards Via Condotti & upwards you will see the balcony that appears in the final scene of the film.
 Day 2
This morning we are going to explore a lesser known area of Rome, Garbatella. A charming & atmospheric part of the city which was built in the 1920's.The layout was based on the Garden Cities of England and you will see many homes with small gardens as well as public spaces.  Originally it housed many families that had become displaced due to the construction of Via  dei Fori Imperiali & Via Conciliazione. Today it is known for its strong community spirit and also for Street Art.  The area also has connections to the film industry. The famous Italian actor Alberto Sordi grew up in Garbatella.
The setting for Leopoldo Pisanello's apartment building is on Via di Villa Belardi in this area.
The  following walk is based on the excellent information on this area found in 'Rome The Second Time' Well worth a read for background information.

To reach Garbatella, take Metro B to Basilica San Paolo. Exit left on to Via Ostiense then walk, with the basilica on your left, to Via delle Sette Chiese.  Follow this road along to Piazza Sant'Eurosia , pausing here for coffee if you so desire. You will see one of the Modernist 'entrances' to Garbatella on this piazza.
Continue on to Piazza Oderico da Pordenone. Via di Villa Belardi is off this piazza. Pisanello's apartment building can be found at number 17. Retrace your steps back to the piazza. Take Viale Guglielmo Massaia. Walk as far as Piazza Bonomelli , then take Via Brollo. At number 7 is La Nuova Cantinetta, a traditional Roman trattoria and a good place for lunch.
After lunch turn left on to Via Rocco Da Cesinale  to Piazza Longobardi. Look for the house decorated in AS Roma colours - red & yellow. Now take Via G Ansaldo from the piazza, continue along, crossing Piazza Pantera until you see the Garbatella Metro station.
Head back to the city and a well earned rest!
Hopefully by late afternoon you will be refreshed and ready for your next location. Take the metro to Flaminia & then pick up the number 4 tram (Mancini). 4 stops will take you to Parco della Musica. This fabulous auditorium was designed by Renzo Piano. Jack & Monica are seen sitting on the seats, discussing architecture, here.

Returning on the number 2 tram (Flaminia) break your journey after one stop & head to Tree Bar. If you time this correctly you will be able to enjoy aperitivo in the shade of umbrella pines.
 After leaving the tram at Flaminia walk across Piazza del Popolo and pick up the number 117 electric bus at Via del Corso. Take the bus all the way to Piazza Venezia. From here take Via San Marco, left on to Via D'Aracoeli then right on to Via Margana which will bring you to the picturesque Piazza Margana. My suggestion for dinner is Vinando  where you will eat well in lovely surroundings.

After dinner you are perfectly placed to climb the stairs to Campidoglio. Walk across the square & head to the right hand corner where you will get a night time view of the forum. Jack & Monica enjoyed the view at sunset ......they should have returned to see this!
Day 3
Start your day at Piazza della Repubblica and enjoy the beauty of the Fountain of the Naiads
This fountain provided the backdrop to the film premier at Space Cinema Moderno attended by Leopoldo Pisanelli and his wife.

Take the metro from Repubblica to Spagna. On leaving the metro station either use the lift or ascend the Spanish Steps. Turn left on to Viale Trinita dei Monti and walk along past the Villa Medici & follow the road that forks to the right, Viale del Belvedere. Very shortly you will see the gardens of Casina Valadier - a perfect spot to stop for coffee. Refreshed, continue on in to the Borghese Gardens. This handy free app is useful here. Enjoy strolling through the gardens, eventually reaching the lake complete with temple (and turtles!).

 You will recognise this as the location where Jack is seen kissing Monica.

Follow the signs to Galleria Nazionale d'Arte Moderna. You don't need to enter the gallery to eat at the café here - it has a separate entrance. The terrace is a lovely place to enjoy lunch. After further strolling, leave the park at Porta Pinciana and head down the Via Veneto. At the junction of Via Veneto & the second road on the right, Via Lombardi, Leopoldo is seen becoming very distressed at the sudden lack of attention.

This brings us to the end of our 'To Rome with Love' itinerary. However, if you are lucky enough to be staying in Rome a little while longer here are suggestions for trips further afield to visit yet more locations.

You could start at the Baths of Caracalla - Jack, Monica & Sally are seen breaking in here at night but you can still get an idea of the grandeur of this monument during the day.

Pick up the 118 bus outside the Baths & take it as far along the Appia Antica as Basilica San Sebastiano. After alighting walk along past the magnificent tomb of Cecilia Metella...........
....... until you reach Qui nun se More Mai at Via Appia Antica 198, a good spot for lunch, especially if you enjoy steaks that are cooked over a real fire.
After lunch pick up the 660 bus from the bus stop on the corner opposite and take it for four stops to Arco di Travertino metro station. Here pick up bus 664 and take it for eight stops to Appia/Squillace. This will bring you to Villa dei Quintili , visited by Jack, Monica, Sally & John in the film.
Close by is Villa Quintili (very confusing)! This is the setting for the garden party attended by Anna & Antonio. The villa is now used as a wedding venue and for private functions so, sadly, unless you have an invite, you will not get to explore the lovely grounds.
An alternate day trip from Rome is to Villa D'Este at Tivoli. Hayley & Michelangelo are seen walking among the fountains here.
Ron in Rome has detailed directions of how to get to Villa D'Este. A perfect choice for lunch would be La Sibilla. Dine on the terrace with spectacular views over the gorge & waterfall.
Finally, you could take a day trip out to Lido di Ostia, easily reached by train from Termini. Alight at Castel Fusano station and straight across the road you will see La Vecchia Pineta  - perfect for lunch. Here Monica announces that she is going back to LA, leaving a heartbroken Jack to be consoled by John.
You may not recognise the setting as Woody Allen changed the blue umbrellas to orange. He felt that this colour better suited the mood of the film.